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Front End Assembly Questions/Discussion

Post VW tech, projects, and questions here. If you've got a beam and an air-cooled engine, this is your place to post.

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Postby Fourstroker » Tue Feb 03, 2009 2:22 pm

partybarge_pilot wrote:
5racer wrote:iv had a idea for a more bullet prof arm for a few years its the money thing or r-d that has held me back.and savage,s way of running tech and rules that real scare,s me one year its ok then its not kinda like the 5 open car that has a diesel motor in it with a turbo. :D


I hear ya on the tech rules, like I said, it would be legal for 1 season probably.......

I'm pretty sure the diesel bug was running sportsman.


He actaully ended up running 5 open. Check Ramsay's "That's gonna leave a mark" thread on RDC. He said he showed up with 1402 on his car and ended up with 50x on it. The 5 guys petitioned him in. Sounds like they wanted him to race with them.
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Postby partybarge_pilot » Tue Feb 03, 2009 11:22 pm

Fourstroker wrote:He actaully ended up running 5 open. Check Ramsay's "That's gonna leave a mark" thread on RDC. He said he showed up with 1402 on his car and ended up with 50x on it. The 5 guys petitioned him in. Sounds like they wanted him to race with them.


Makes sense, they need more entry's anyway. Technically, the motor is legal by the rule book minus the turbo. Since they have been letting other turbo diesels race, it was only a matter of time.
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Postby Bajabug12A » Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:33 pm

Ok, here’s my problem! I keep breaking my white (I forget the actual name)beam bushing’s on the exposed part between the beam and the arm’s. I check the tightness of the thru-rods every time I go out, and even have two nuts on them. This is getting really old, what is everyone else doing? I’ve heard of people getting aluminum ones made but that just sounds like binding issues.
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Postby 5racer » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:10 pm

Bajabug12A wrote:Ok, here’s my problem! I keep breaking my white (I forget the actual name)beam bushing’s on the exposed part between the beam and the arm’s. I check the tightness of the thru-rods every time I go out, and even have two nuts on them. This is getting really old, what is everyone else doing? I’ve heard of people getting aluminum ones made but that just sounds like binding issues.


shit can the saco bushings ,and get the black delrin "aka peet" bushings .
if you have the small arms i have a grip of nylon /teflon bushings il give ya there 100% better than saco bushings
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Postby prerunner1499 » Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:57 pm

Bajabug12A wrote:Ok, here’s my problem! I keep breaking my white (I forget the actual name)beam bushing’s on the exposed part between the beam and the arm’s. I check the tightness of the thru-rods every time I go out, and even have two nuts on them. This is getting really old, what is everyone else doing? I’ve heard of people getting aluminum ones made but that just sounds like binding issues.



I run the same saco bushings you speak of. I too kept breaking the shouts off too so I said piss on it.
I found that I was cracking or stressing them when I had to pound them in a little.
So,,,,I cut the "bushing shout" off with my saw, I now use a dowell with a shop rag wrapped around it in a drill to size the outer side to the ID of the beam. Using emery paper or 180 drit sandpaper.
Then I install them cut off end to the inside, and ream to 1.5 ID.
Then, I then use the "donut" delrin bushings from saco on the outside of the beam between the arm.
Grease them all up with molly lube and call it good.
Every time you change bushings or do anything with the thru rods you absilotely HAVE TO check the toe. It will change even with the slightest bit of donut wear or tightening of the turu rods.
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Postby Bajabug12A » Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:35 pm

5racer wrote:
Bajabug12A wrote:Ok, here’s my problem! I keep breaking my white (I forget the actual name)beam bushing’s on the exposed part between the beam and the arm’s. I check the tightness of the thru-rods every time I go out, and even have two nuts on them. This is getting really old, what is everyone else doing? I’ve heard of people getting aluminum ones made but that just sounds like binding issues.


shit can the saco bushings ,and get the black delrin "aka peet" bushings .
if you have the small arms i have a grip of nylon /teflon bushings il give ya there 100% better than saco bushings


That’s the word(delrin)I was looking for, I’m using the white ones from Kartek. I’ll check my bushing size later this week and let you know. Good to know I'm not the only one that has had this problem.
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Postby Bajabug12A » Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:36 pm

5racer wrote:
Bajabug12A wrote:Ok, here’s my problem! I keep breaking my white (I forget the actual name)beam bushing’s on the exposed part between the beam and the arm’s. I check the tightness of the thru-rods every time I go out, and even have two nuts on them. This is getting really old, what is everyone else doing? I’ve heard of people getting aluminum ones made but that just sounds like binding issues.


shit can the saco bushings ,and get the black delrin "aka peet" bushings .
if you have the small arms i have a grip of nylon /teflon bushings il give ya there 100% better than saco bushings


Ok, I found that I'm running the 1.760 white delrin beam bushings. Is that the size you have laying around? If so, how could I get them from you?

Thanks,
Shad
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Postby 5racer » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:13 pm

Bajabug12A wrote:
5racer wrote:
Bajabug12A wrote:Ok, here’s my problem! I keep breaking my white (I forget the actual name)beam bushing’s on the exposed part between the beam and the arm’s. I check the tightness of the thru-rods every time I go out, and even have two nuts on them. This is getting really old, what is everyone else doing? I’ve heard of people getting aluminum ones made but that just sounds like binding issues.


shit can the saco bushings ,and get the black delrin "aka peet" bushings .
if you have the small arms i have a grip of nylon /teflon bushings il give ya there 100% better than saco bushings


Ok, I found that I'm running the 1.760 white delrin beam bushings. Is that the size you have laying around? If so, how could I get them from you?

Thanks,
Shad




if you have a 2"od -.120wall beam and have 1-1/2 od arms then yes thats what i have if you bring arm with you i will machine to fit if needed .you will have to drive to me to get them there free how can you go wrong lol.or il ups them at 10.00 bucks a piece.
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Postby Fourstroker » Tue Jul 07, 2009 2:41 pm

Those of you who get Dirt Sports already know this but the last 2 issues (not July) has some great information and a step by step on setting up and prepping a beam front end. Check it out if you haven't already done so.
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Postby jessespenc » Tue Jul 07, 2009 9:21 pm

Fourstroker wrote:Those of you who get Dirt Sports already know this but the last 2 issues (not July) has some great information and a step by step on setting up and prepping a beam front end. Check it out if you haven't already done so.


i have read both articles and enjoyed them both. i dont feel i learned anymore from them than i have reading build threads on this and other sites. but there is some good information in them.
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Postby Mark » Fri Jul 10, 2009 6:51 pm

I also read them and they were very helpful. The only question I have is about the total number of shims for each pin. They say 10 for each pin and they sell packs of 40 but other sources I have read say the number total is 8? What is the difference? And the chart they show, is that based on stock VW or does it work for our after market applications?

I am replacing my Bronze link pin bushings and putting new 7/8" pins but I am having to grind a little on the pinch bolt notches because I can't get the bolt through. Has anyone run into this with new pins?
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Postby jessespenc » Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:28 pm

Mark wrote:I also read them and they were very helpful. The only question I have is about the total number of shims for each pin. They say 10 for each pin and they sell packs of 40 but other sources I have read say the number total is 8? What is the difference? And the chart they show, is that based on stock VW or does it work for our after market applications?


stock come with 8 shims. i have been told that with the combo spindles you should run 10. and the chart works for all vw based front end. it is all the same concept. if i am wrong someone tell me
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Postby jessespenc » Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:31 pm

...
looking for any vw parts you want to donate to my build
viewtopic.php?t=9978
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Postby Fourstroker » Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:33 pm

Mark wrote:I also read them and they were very helpful. The only question I have is about the total number of shims for each pin. They say 10 for each pin and they sell packs of 40 but other sources I have read say the number total is 8? What is the difference? And the chart they show, is that based on stock VW or does it work for our after market applications?

I am replacing my Bronze link pin bushings and putting new 7/8" pins but I am having to grind a little on the pinch bolt notches because I can't get the bolt through. Has anyone run into this with new pins?


Use the chart. It is all about the offset between the 2 arms. Has nothing to do with stock or aftermarket. Let me repeat....USE THE CHART. You will never have a problem with spindles being out of alignment, etc. You should not need to grind the link pin if you use the right amount of shims. You may have to tap them a little snug before putting the pinch bolt through.

8 shims is the magic #
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Postby Mark » Fri Jul 10, 2009 8:18 pm

But the chart in the DS article is saying total of 10 shims... I measured my offset on the right side and it's 7.45mm so in the chart, the 7.5 mm column calls for (top pin) 6 on the inside and 4 on outside and then Lower pin says 5 and 5. The pinch bolt is hitting the notch because the notch is not deep enough probably .030" so I am just filing it deep enough to allow the bolt to pass. I tried tapping the bolt and it just flattened the threads on the end of the 3/8' bolt. The notch is wider than the bolt so its not because the pin is to far in or out. The article actually reads to put the pinch bolt through, tighten it with new Nylock nut, then bolt the link pins in with new nylock and loctite. Tighten the link pins suuggly but not to tight as to bind the assembly from cycling through its travel freely.
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